Fierce waste of materiel, though, piled as storm-wrack along the coast at one point.

Yet what really sets John's apart is the expert economy of its pizzas: no waste and no excessive ingredients piled on for show, just flavor, texture and a regard for tradition.

The human waste piled below sewers opening onto the Miljacka River's stoney bank and the dead rat floating in the water nearby do not seem to bother those who have come to swim, to bathe themselves and their babies and to wash their clothes and carpets.

If grass clippings are composted, be sure to layer the pile with accumulations of leaves, garden rakings or soil, since too much green waste piled in compost will not decompose.

The ground-up waste is mixed, soaked with water, and piled in rows about 8 feet high.

Over the decades the dump grew, the waste eventually piled as tall as an 11-story building, looming high above the South Shore's flat horizon.

"Solid wastes piled outside of cities have leaked toxins into the ground water and the water in many rivers does not meet the standards for bathing much less drinking."