I order the smooth chicken liver pâté, "fused" with brandy and accompanied by walnut bread and tomato and coriander chutney.

He also makes a sourdough walnut bread that makes a superb accompaniment to cheeses, as well as several yeasted breads.

Nancy MacNamara, who cultivates the weeds for him on her family's property, immediately accepted a slice of walnut bread and Camembert.

"Yes, I am the one who will break it," Raffels said, munching on the walnut bread and wiping his mouth.

A discovery on the impressive cheese tray was Ardi Gasna, a local brebis, served with black cherry jam and walnut bread.

"Scones, crumpets, walnut bread ... woman must have been baking all day."

Endive and pears with Roquefort and grilled walnut bread make an ingenious seasonal salad.

Spread on rounds of toasted rye or walnut bread.

The soup is best eaten just warm with a swirl of sour cream on top and a slice of walnut bread alongside.

The cheese plate is a bargain at $12: three generous chunks arrive with croutons and walnut bread.