Another good specialty is tilefish in a subtle sauce of crushed mustard seeds and mustard oil.

Just as pleasing were the Szechwan dumplings, six of them steaming and oversize in a sauce both subtle and tangy.

Delicate and comforting, it combines perfect fish in a subtle sauce based on egg yolks and white wine.

Then, a real winner - tender, meaty monkfish in a subtle cider-based sauce, served with slices of caramelized apple.

The tender marinated chicken-and-beet satay was accompanied by cucumbers, onions and a subtle sauce.

It comes in a subtle sauce heated up with mustard seed and ginger.

The pappadelle with quails ($15.95) also stuck together, but the tiny, delicate spread-eagled birds and their gentle, subtle plum-tomato sauce are first class.

Just as beguiling was another chicken dish in a subtle sauce of almonds, cashews and sultanas.

PizzaLand's has a crisp, chewy crust, a subtle sauce and is cooked long enough so the cheese is a little brown in spots.

Delicate fish like sea bass call for subtle sauces that do not mask their flavor and texture.