The menu is adventuresome, but in a homey way, with bracing shellfish broths, white beans, garlic, cabbage and even chorizo.

Plump pink scallops, still in the shell, were perched on a fat slice of bruschetta, which slowly absorbed the shellfish broth.

The seafood in a big bowl of perfectly cooked shellfish broth is an entirely successful dish.

Less ornate but equally good are jumbo lobster ravioli surrounded by shrimp and served in a lovely shellfish broth.

Roasted monkfish in a shellfish broth finds itself sharing the plate with aromatic grits and floral aioli.

Most memorable was a perfectly roasted slab of turbot with a shellfish broth, accompanied by miniature parsley-filled ravioli.

The individual ingredients were fine, although the composite fell flat for lack of adequate seasoning in the shellfish broth.

Halibut is roasted to perfection and served in a lustrous shellfish broth with shallots, tomato, pearl onions and tiny noodles.

Roasted monkfish comes in a tomato-enriched shellfish broth with ganishings of charred onions, chorizo and chick peas.

A challenge to finish, the big bowl of shellfish broth holding littleneck clams, chorizo, corn, capers and red peppers is worth the effort.