Other changing specialties include rabbit stuffed with eggplant; roast tuna with a Nicoise ratatouille; a brandade, or creamy puree, of fresh cod, and a fresh fig tart.

From the menu, which changes monthly, we chose potato-pasta tortelli filled with pigeon ragu, baked pecorino with truffles, rabbit stuffed with cubed potatoes and fennel seed, and tiny lamb patties in an artichoke-lemon sauce.

The updated rendition of rabbit with mustard arrives as an homage "au lapin" - a delicate boned leg of rabbit stuffed with a rabbit mousse is paired with another leg cooked on the bone, both moist and flavorful, bathed in a gentle, creamy mustard sauce, accompanied by a tiny potato gratin.

Fall specialties include rabbit stuffed with foie gras and truffles, wild duck brightened with a hint of candied lemon rind, and roasted partridge with smoked bacon and cabbage.

A tiny arugula soufflé served with mixed greens, sliced saddle of rabbit stuffed with bulgar and ham, and baked figs and honey with nougat ice cream made a memorable meal.

For a more elaborate lapin preparation, Restaurant Zanghi (50 Forest Avenue, Glen Cove, 759-0900) serves loin of rabbit stuffed with chicken mousse studded with wild mushrooms and pistachios atop a Port and foie gras sauce.

Even better, and worth the splurge, is the Alsatian grilled rabbit ($21), a mustard-coated haunch in an oblong skillet, stuffed with bread and plenty of bacon drippings.

Manzanita, on Healdsburg Avenue, is a warm, inviting place with a great wine list and some terrific dishes: grilled rabbit stuffed with polenta, for example, or Yukon Gold potato gnocchi with asparagus and truffled pecorino cheese.

"Hat says you'll be leaving come September," Silas said as they sipped coffee after the meal of spitted rabbit stuffed with wild onion.

Dishes you might prepare include ravioli with pigeon filling and pine nut sauce, rabbit stuffed with bread and prunes and timbale of grilled eggplant.