The dining room at Va Bene is done in sponged ocher walls with shiny red lacquer trim and restrained lighting.

- 56 - Separated by expanses of ocher wall, doors stained to look like rosewood marched toward a floor-to-ceiling window with an arched fanlight.

Even the white-painted woodwork gleamed against the ocher walls.

Above is the village of Baoding, surrounded by ocher walls topped by stone tiles.

Twisted gooseneck light fixtures overhang the ocher walls and circular avocado booths.

Posters of Italy now line the ocher walls.

Atmosphere: Authentic-looking brasserie with ocher walls and marbled columns.

The dining room is warm and inviting with wood floors, ocher walls with colorful paintings and wooden booths.

The mottled ocher walls are warm and soothing - but not the clownish paintings all about, made even more obtrusive by their harsh illumination.

Atmosphere: High-ceilinged, tri-partitioned space done in sponged ocher walls; very loud.