The serving corps also steered us to two soups that are among the best anywhere: red bean and mussel soup, and fish soup.

Feast on mussel soup, fried anchovies or caponata, a rustic open sandwich of octopus and salad.

Zuppa di cozze (mussel soup) for $8 and involtini for $7 are good entrees.

My husband shows an interest in the spiced crab and mussel soup on the "specials" board.

The frothy mussel soup is airy and elegant, anchored with green lentils that add an interesting texture.

Creamy mussel soup ($5), with a thistle of julienned vegetables in the middle, is uninspiring.

The light, creamy celery and mussel soup is also cool and spare.

Savor a spoonful of creamy mussel soup with saffron and sorrel.

Saffron-tinged mussel soup, as delicate as a whisper, is another creamy winner.

Other high scorers are soothing mussel soup and clam-laden New England clam chowder.