Welcome to La Reserve, which has seen significant changes since its longtime chef, Andre Gaillard, died two and a half years ago.

You might remember that Alison's longtime chef, Tom Valenti, left about a year ago to go to Cascabel in SoHo.

In mid-1990, the longtime chef, Roland Chenus, and his partner, Camille Dulac, ended their association, with Mr. Dulac taking control of the restaurant.

The actual kitchen duties are performed by Manuel Mattei, a longtime corporate chef with the Bice group.

Bourdain, a longtime chef, took his try-anything spirit to Singapore, where he sampled the city's street foods (Page 126).

The reference was to the Mayor's longtime chef, Mitchel London, who was accused of using city cars and employees at times for his private baking business.

At Cafe Mezé, credit also goes to Mark Filippo, its longtime chef, who will probably never suffer from ennui.

Ms. Letchford, a longtime professional chef, and Ms. Reid, who worked in the corporate world, sometimes sip wine as they mince and chop.

Mr. Valentine was the longtime chef at the Maidstone Arms in East Hampton.

But the restaurant is not the same, some say, and not just because the longtime chef, Jimmy Schmidt, left two years ago to start his own restaurant.