Nor were there any culinary missteps in the Manhattan clam and New England fish chowders.

The liquid of first-day fish chowder is fairly thin--basically, a milk broth.

The fish chowder is a winner.

The Riverhouse at 34450 Brooten Road (503-965-6722) offers steamed clams, grilled Chinook salmon and super fish chowders; about $20 a person including a choice Oregon white.

While traditionalists here warn against drinking Madeiras with food, we'd wager that there's no better match for a hearty fish chowder than the bracing, warm spice of a 10-year-old verdelho.

They didn't mind sharing the dry cat food with him, but luscious creamy fish chowder was something else again.

The food had been prepared for orken and human and elven palates, with fried squid and fish chowders for them and a purple soup for the elves.

The menu's fish chowder is a thick, creamy delight loaded with briny goodies.

A similar creamy fish chowder is its equal.

According to Ron Pesha, Lubec's Webmaster, public dinners of fish chowders, casseroles and cream cakes are congenial affairs.