Steamers, crab rolls and other marine items are also on the menu.

Start with the crispy crab rolls, then move on to the signatures: lotus-leaf-wrapped sea bass with ginger-lemon sauce, or tamarind-spiced rack of lamb.

Curry Puffs are light and the crab rolls crisp.

The fried selections - the Siamese roll, the tofu and batter-covered vegetables and the crab rolls - are less interesting.

There was also a sense of humor; legs peeked from the soft-shell crab roll like little Rockettes, all in a row on the plate.

On the basis of that lobster roll and a similarly indifferent, flavorless crab roll, one might think so.

After the crab roll, Mr. Takahashi would permit requests, adjusting the bill upward accordingly.

I stretched my meal out with uni one night, with a second crab roll and some sea eel on another night.

Also on offer are fresh crab rolls - the filling could have been caught by the bloke sitting next to you, and his boat is probably tied up alongside.

At Nobu, where a single soft-shell crab roll costs $9.50, the bill for a group of six can easily reach $1,000.