The accompanying sauce was bland and perhaps due to the chef's tight fist lacked the Italian touch or fragrance.

Even the excellent potato knishes ($2 each) are given an Italian touch with a topping of pine nuts.

He added Italian touches - cherry tomatoes and mozzarella balls - and another New World ingredient, avocado.

They sparkle with glass bricks, Romanesque fresco designs and Italian touches.

Despite some Asian and Italian touches, the food is what might best be called American, reliable and not overblown.

Mr. Ruggerio, a veteran of La Caravelle, leavens his classical cooking approach with Italian and contemporary American touches.

Not that Louie's, which serves ageless American fare with French and Italian touches, hasn't taken steps to keep up with the fashions.

The tiny shop dates to 1858 with the arrival of a Milanese milliner, and the stylish hand-made hats (120 to 700 kuna) still bear an Italian touch.

It's time someone came along with the Early Italian touch.

Seafood, with random Italian touches, is the specialty.